Uruguay’s Mate culture

Yerba Mate is the national drink of Uruguay. It is a brewed hot beverage that you can find everyone drinking, yet you cannot buy it anywhere. Mate is actually a very personal drink that is not ordered at a restaurant at a cafe. You need to have the right equipment for your own use, and you don’t share it with anyone.

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Types of Brazilian restaurants

Rio de Janeiro has taken concept restaurants to a whole new level. Outside of Brazil, we associate Brazilian cuisine with all you can eat steakhouses but that is only one of the offering you find here in Rio. In fact, the locals love to eat out and cannot afford the high end steakhouses every day. Neither is it healthy for you. There are actually many types of foods and restaurants in Rio, each differentiated by price, quality and dishes. Some of these include… Continue reading “Types of Brazilian restaurants”

From fine dining to eating like a local in Lima, Peru

On the Costa Verde coastline of Lima, Peru, residents of the city stroll along the boardwalk, enjoying the view of the sunset over the Pacific Ocean. Couples stop to kiss at the Parke del Amor, while joggers and skateboarders take advantage of the last light of day. And diners settle down for fresh seafood and strong cocktails in the finest restaurants in the city.

Here are 3 excellent Lima restaurants that will introduce you to Peruvian cuisine at its most indulgent. There are also tips on how to eat like a local at the ubiquitous cevicheria shops, and how to shop in the open-air markets, where you can find everything from aortas to aphrodisiacs. 

Fine Restaurants

Situated on a lone wharf jutting out from the cliffside in the neighborhood of Miraflores, La Rosa Nautica is easily one of Lima’s most romantic restaurants. Here, the Pacific Ocean gently swells underfoot as diners enjoy the perennial mild breezes. The cupola-shaped restaurant is the only establishment on the wharf, located just past the Larcomar shopping center.

Try any seafood dish, or go during happy hour and sit at the lounge, where you can relax in comfy window-side couches. If you are unfamiliar with Peruvian cuisine, start with an appetizer plate and try a little of each seafood surprise: ceviche is the most famous of Peruvian seafood, but octopus, camarones, and scallops are also popular. Peruvian seafood rice, sea bass, and arroz con mariscos make good entrées. Finish the meal with a chocolate soufflé or simply a cortado espresso.

Here an insider’s tip: to enjoy Peruvian ceviche to the fullest extent, assemble the “perfect bite” on your fork: a slice of white halibut, marinated in lime; a slice of cold sweet potato; and a sliver or two of purple onions. This combines the main elements of ceviche into one fantastic bite.

A bit further inland is the Huaca Pucllana Restaurant. Also in the Miraflores district of Lima, this restaurant boasts an unusual setting: its open-air patio lies adjacent to a pre-Inca adobe temple. The Huaca Pucllana was built over a thousand years ago, and its layers of vertically-aligned adobe bricks are a stark contrast from the suburban neighborhood that now surrounds the temple. The restaurant opens in the evenings, just as the sunsets and the lights around the temple turn on, providing an impressive backdrop for this 5 star restaurant.

Choose from Peruvian favorites such as aji de gallina or ceviche. The gallina is a tenderly-cooked hen draped in a flavorful, creamy sauce, and in general, it is the best chicken dish you’ll find in Peru.

Eating Like a Local

Once you’ve had your fill of Lima’s 5 star restaurants (and there are plenty more, such as Astrid y Gaston, or any in the Larcomar shopping center), you may want to branch out and try eating like a local Limeño.

Cevicherias (also called Cebicherias) are found around the city, and vary from small shacks to major establishments. The majority of the best cevicherias are found in Miraflores, the priciest of which is El Kapallaq. Located in an old mansion at Avenida Petit Thouars 488, this cevicheria is run by a surfer-turned-chef, and the menu favors generous sauces and oils.

Make sure to also stop and shop at the Mercado Surquillo, one of the best open-air markets in Lima. Located within walking distance of the Ovalo Miraflores, the Mercado Surquillo was recently renovated to encompass food festivals, held each weekend. Locals come to the Mercado to load up on fresh veggies, meats, nuts, and herbs, and then also grab a bite to eat for lunch. Enjoy a platano smoothie along with an empanada or two. Then stroll through the Mercado, admiring the various animal parts hanging in the sun.

Watch this video to learn more about the Mercado Surquillo.

~ By guest blogger,  Kaitlin McMichael, travel writer at South America Travel News

Heart of lightness

Plaza Mayor in Lima
Plaza Mayor in Lima

I own it.  I’m a shallow traveler.  When choosing a destination my top criteria are visual drama and cultural civility.  In other words, a beautiful place with a relative absence of war, crime, despots, or other forms of antisocial behavior.  Delicious cuisine and interesting culture or wildlife are also high on the list.  So when I had the opportunity to travel toPeru, it seemed like a great fit on all those dimensions. Plus there was another exciting aspect – I was also going as a Cross Cultural Solutions (CCS) volunteer.  But more on that later.

City of Cusco
City of Cusco

Cusco is a breathtaking little city, both metaphorically and literally.  Situated at an altitude of over 11,000 feet, the air is thin.  One is advised to hydrate and rest upon arrival in order to acclimate to the altitude – advice I promptly ignored in favor of taking photos of the quaint cobblestone streets and surrounding mountains.  For this I was punished with a blazing headache.  This did not stop me from touring the nearby Incan complex Sacsayhuaman, a UNESCO World Heritage designated site with a spectacular view of the valley below.  But as the evening of the first day wore on a merchant took pity on me and gave me an aromatic herb called muna (pronounced “mun-ya).  Her advice was to inhale the aroma of the foliage to alleviate symptoms.  Along with a good night’s sleep, it did the trick.  The next day I was as good as new.

Local musicians
Local musicians

My friends and I ate several times at the same restaurant in Cusco.  We’d randomly picked it out for lunch while walking around the lovely Plaza de Armas our first day out.  It was so good that we went back.  The name is Papillion and it has a great view of the Plaza from the balcony.  What a find!  The quinoa soup was mouthwatering and I spent the rest of the trip stalking the recipe.  Quinoa is a nutritious staple of the Peruvian diet and was considered sacred by pre-Columbian civilizations.  At one point one of my travelling friends also shared a bite of her alpaca.  Tender, mild and nicely prepared.  Our last night there a local band played traditional music as we sipped Pisco sours.  It may have been the effect of the notoriously lethal Pisco, the altitude, or the good company, but it felt pretty magical.

Machu Pichu
Machu Pichu

The legendary Machu Picchu embodies the cliché “pictures do not do it justice.”  The scenery along the way to Aguas Calientes is just a prelude.  It is a lengthy trip (early morning bus ride to the train station) but the time flies with so much see.  Since at all times we were treading the well-worn “Gringo Trail.”, there was of course evidence of this – merchants selling their wares.  But it was not obtrusive.

I found the people of Peruto be approachable and warm.  How many major cities could you ask a police officer in a foreign language to help you flag a cab, and have him drop everything to help?  This happened our last day in downtown Lima.

This leads me to less shallow criteria for choosing a travel destination – historical and cultural significance.  I’m embarrassed to say these criteria are not always high on my list when choosing a destination.   Witnessing the location where someone did something important or where something significant happened  are not in and of themselves what are compelling to me – it’s the ‘whys’ and the implications that are the interesting bits.  And since travel is logistics-heavy by its very nature, more often than not there isn’t the opportunity for deeper reflection.  Which leads to an experience many travelers have shared – the dull, 10 minute guidebook spiel, and then it’s off the next thing.

So I was caught off guard by the sheer poignancy of the historical elements that I experienced in Peru.

Volunteering with CCS

First, there is the small matter of Machu Picchuitself.  The fact that it represents a human feat of such awesome magnitude rendered in such beautiful form that one cannot help but be humbled in its presence and ponder the exceptional characteristics of the civilization that created it, cannot be overstated.

Next was Villa El Salvador.  This is where I volunteered with CCS while inLima.  Travelling as part of CCS was not new to me.  The previous year I’d travelled to Morocco with Sucheta, spending time at a local orphanage in Rabat.  It did not prepare me for what I was about to experience in Peru. Villa ElSalvadoris a marvel of the human spirit’s drive for self-organization and democracy.  The origins of this community as a suburb of Lima are as compelling asAmerica’s fight for independence, and it has gained notoriety internationally for its unique origins and successes. The abuelos, or elders, that I worked with there are as sweet as they are heart breakingly vulnerable.  I was deeply moved by their circumstances.

And finally, an exhibit at the Lima Museum of the Nation has left its mark on my soul.  On the upper floor, isolated from the rest of the museum, is a chilling black and white photography exhibit on the history of The Shining Path.  I wonder how many Americans know about this dark and recent period in Peru’s history – a political insurgency that turned citizen against citizen, government against citizen, and led to the tragic death or disappearance of nearly 70,000 people between 1980 and 2000.

As a destination Peru has it all.  You don’t have to be a “shallow traveler” like me to appreciate its beauty and culture.  And having visited, I’ve come away a bit deeper for the experience.

~ By guest blogger, Cheryl Garin, who traveled with me to Morocco and has become a dear friend and supporter.