What’s Cruising Going To Look Like in 2021?

In March 2020, I was scheduled on a Mekong River cruise to Vietnam and Cambodia with AmaWaterways. I had booked my cabins, received my visas, and cleared my calendar. Then the world shut down. Countries closed their borders and cruise ships came to a halt. Eight months later, I still have no idea when my cruise will be rescheduled for.

Curious to know when will you be able to go on your next cruise vacation? While there’s no certainty, chances are 2021 will bring new changes to the cruise industry, making it safer and viable.

Cruise to the Italian Riviera

Europe is Sailing

Cruise ships in Europe started sailing in Summer 2020 amidst the pandemic. With only European passengers on board and local (mainly river cruise) itineraries, many of the cruises were able to contain COVID-19 outbreaks. “With enhanced measures in place – including 100% testing for passengers and crew prior to boarding, mask-wearing, physical distancing requirements, highly controlled shore excursions and many more, Cruise Lines International Association (CLIA) members have gradually resumed sailing in Europe and other parts of the world with success,” the organization said. CLIA members comprise 95% of global oceangoing cruise capacity.

AmaWaterways became the first U.S. based river cruise line to resume operations in Europe. They followed protocols outlined by not only the CDC, but the World Health Organization, IG RiverCruise and other official authorities.

US Suspended Until Dec 31, 2020

In the U.S., CDC banned cruising until October. On Oct 31st, it lifted its No Sail Order on cruise ships in U.S. waters, but with a series of requirements – 74 in fact. CLIA member cruise lines extended their suspension of cruise operations through Dec. 31, following the CDC’s latest order, which ended the cruise ship sailing ban but replaced it with an extensive series of requirements cruise lines must undertake to resume sailing again in U.S. waters. These were established by The Healthy Sail Panel.

Cruising on Anthem of the Seas in the Mediterranean

Simulations/ Test Voyages

The framework includes a requirement that ships conduct test sailings prior to restarting commercial operations and present to the CDC a report showing that those sailings were successful in mitigating the risk of spread to crew, passengers and communities. 

Once a simulated voyage is complete and the cruise line reports on its results, the CDC will determine whether that ship will receive a Conditional Sailing Certificate or if it must modify its practices or engage in additional simulated voyages.

Also among the requirements is that a cruise line must apply for elements of Conditional Sailing Certificate at least 60 days before a ship plans to launch passenger cruises, which is likely to push any sailing in U.S. waters until at least early January.

More than 100,000 people signed up to take part in Royal Caribbean’s test sailings just days after the cruise line put out a call for volunteers. Sign up here if you want to be on a simulated voyage.

volunteer on a cruise
Cruise lines are looking for volunteers on simulated voyages

Sailing Agreements

Further, there are new restrictions by the ports. Cruise lines must establish agreements with shoreside healthcare entities in any ports in which they plan to operate, in case they need to evacuate any passengers and crew in need of Covid-19 care to a hospital.

sail to key west

For example, Key West has capped the number of cruisers allowed ashore and the size of ships allowed to dock, and to give priority to ships based on their health and environmental records. Their measures include banning cruise ships that carry more than 1,300 people, including passengers and crew; allowing only 1,500 cruise passengers per day to disembark; and requiring ports to prioritize berthing to companies based on their scores with the CDC’s Vessel Sanitation Program and their record of environmental violations. According to the Florida Ports Council, Key West is one of the busiest cruise ports in the nation, with about 393 ships and 913,323 passengers visiting during the 2018-19 season.

viking world cafe

Food and Tours

Meal service and entertainment venues are going to be modified to facilitate social distancing. While most cruise ships around the world stay docked, many cruise lines are launching new designs and new ships. AmaWaterways is replacing buffets with more personalized dining experiences, from à la carte dining to debuting show kitchens on the newly renovated sister ships AmaBella and AmaVerde. Silversea is launching a new culinary focused Silver Moon ship.

Shore excursions may be fewer, and restricted to smaller groups, rather than bus load. Many of these now focus on outdoor adventures, natural spaces, sustainability and ecotourism.

Views from a Cruise Ship

Smaller

Heard of barges, gulets or Turkish schooners? Luxury tour operators and yacht rental companies are seeing growing demand from first-time customers and ocean cruisers for the variety of small-boat products that enable families or groups of friends to travel in their own bubble.  

These include slow traveling river barges that carry six to 18 passengers. They have sails but are typically powered by engines. You can do a full buyout to create your own itinerary and meals in a Covid-safe bubble. Where could you go? Turkey, Croatia, Mexico, and most of the Caribbean is open to US citizens.

In the meantime, learn about Croatia’s delicious food

Also important to note that The Framework for Conditional Sailing Order applies to all cruise ships, which the Order defines as commercial passenger ships with the capacity to carry more than 250 people and where an overnight stay onboard by passengers or crew is anticipated.

cruise in the galapagos islands

Private Islands

To avoid crowds and port agreements, some cruise lines are developing their own private island, just for the passengers to enjoy. Expect more itineraries from Norwegian Cruise Line Holdings. CEO Frank Del Rio said that the cruise company is the only one with a private destination in both the Bahamas, with Great Stirrup Cay, and the Western Caribbean, where it developed Harvest Caye in Belize.

Meanwhile, Royal Caribbean International’s senior vice president of sales, trade support and service, confirmed that the first sailings the line will offer when it resumes service will be short cruises to its private island, Perfect Day at CocoCay.

Continuous Testing

When you do get on a cruise, expect to be tested before and during the sail. According to Viking Cruises, “Continuous PCR testing, along with our extensive onboard hygiene protocols, will lead to making Viking ships a safe place to get away to and explore the world.” The Norwegian cruise operator has installed a laboratory capable of running daily Covid-19 tests on all guests and crew onboard its 930-passenger Viking Star.

When onboard infections are detected in time, they can avoid any ship wide outbreaks. The important things is that the ships have a procedures (and space) to isolate those who are infected.

cruise travel in Greenland

Cruise Restart Will Take Time

It is unlikely that cruise ships will start sailing in January 2021. It takes time to bring crew from various countries, quarantine and test them, provision and prepare ships for service, and deploy them to ports. This will likely take a minimum of two months. The bigger piece for all the cruise lines is to combat media negativity and consumer fears.

two cruise ships
Photo by Samson Bush on Pexels.com

Economic Impact

Why should you even care? With rising COVID-19 cases, who wants to book, let alone go on a cruise in the distant future?

CLIA says that each day without cruise operations in the U.S. results in nearly 1,000 American jobs lost and that from mid-March through today (Nov 2020). It is estimated that the suspension of cruise operations has resulted in a loss of more than $25 billion in economic activity and over 164,000 American jobs. Globally, the cruise industry generates over $150 billion in economic activity every year, supporting 1.17 million jobs paying more than $50 billion in salaries and wages.

“The positive news regarding a vaccine, together with our Travel Waiver Plus program, proven health and safety protocols, and innovative designs give guests peace of mind,” says Kristin Karst, Executive Vice President and Co-Founder of AmaWaterways.

And when you return from your cruise ship or river cruise voyage, check here for the latest CDC advise to passengers.

Read about my fly/ cruise to Antarctica in January 2020

It Deserves More Than A Day Trip: Liechtenstein

Liechtenstein is the 6th smallest country in the world, located in the center of the Alps, between Switzerland and Austria. Whenever I mention Liechtenstein to someone, the common reactions I get are – Never heard of it, or I’ve been there on a day trip from Zurich. Honestly, I did not know much about this tiny country either, until I went there and discovered it for myself. I did not want to do a bus tour or a day trip, as that never gives you a broad insight into the country.

Downtown Vaduz in Liechtenstein
Downtown Vaduz

Getting There

I rented a car from Zurich and a little over an hour later arrived in the capital of Vaduz. The drive was mostly through small farms and highway, approaching scenic mountains.

After having spent a couple of weeks in Switzerland, Vaduz didn’t look all that different. It is a Princely state though, and a very rich one too. From the city center you can see the castle perched on a hill. Looking over the capital, this is where the royal family still resides. The Vaduz Castle looks like a 12th-century medieval castle from the outside, but the inside is very opulent, fit for 21st-century kings and queens. I was told the monarch occasionally opens their home to deserving citizens when they have lavish parties.

Romantic dinner at Restaurant Maree, located at Park Hotel Sonnenhof
Romantic dinner at Restaurant Maree, located at Park Hotel Sonnenhof

Where to Stay

You can still get a glimpse of royalty. By booking a suite at the Park Hotel Sonnenhof, you will have a direct view of the castle. A boutique family-run Relais & Chateau hotel, this is the best place to stay in Liechtenstein. Surrounded by vineyards and mountains, the hotel has 29 rooms, a Turkish-inspired spa, a Michelin star restaurant, and a relaxing garden. You will also see pictures of celebrity guests who have stayed here, including heads of states, Sting and Paulo Coelho!

 Symphony of chanterelles, cream of roasted eggplant, dried tomatoes and fresh basil.
Symphony of chanterelles, cream of roasted eggplant, dried tomatoes and fresh basil.

Where to Eat

Make sure to call ahead for dinner reservations (ask for a table on the terrace) at the hotel’s Restaurant Maree. Many people drive from Switzerland, Austria, and Germany (all 20 miles) to celebrate special occasions at what is considered the best restaurant in Liechtenstein. The restaurant has been awarded 1 Michelin star, 2 Toques, and 17 points from Gault Millau. In other words, it’s really good! Chef Hubert (the hotel’s owner’s son) prepared a 6-course wine paired dinner for me, using many local ingredients and the finest European wines. Highlights were chanterelle mushrooms in roasted eggplant dip, codfish with orange risotto, a light, and refreshing raspberry sorbet and elderflower jello dessert, washed down with French Moscato.

The cuisine in Liechtenstein is influenced by its very close neighbors. You will mostly find the same dishes as in the Swiss-German region. There are a few international restaurants in downtown Vaduz as well.

What to Drink

The Princely Winery Hofkellerei owned by the Prince of Liechtenstein is located in Vaduz. You can walk around the small vineyard (their larger one is in Austria) and spend a few hours tasting their wines in the Princely Domaine. There’s also a restaurant and a gift shop that sells wine, champagne, and Princely chocolates.

Things To Do

If you went to Liechtenstein on a tour bus, you would probably be dropped in downtown Vaduz for half a day. It is a really small place with an interesting mix of architecture that doesn’t make it a pretty city. However, you can actually spend a couple of days here exploring. There are many museums that house the royal family’s private collections, stamp collections, as well as rotating art exhibitions. The Adventure Pass gives you access to over 30 museums and attractions around the country for only 30 Swiss Francs.

Trekking guide Berggotta Rosaria Heeb in Sareis, Liechtenstein
Trekking guide Berggotta Rosaria Heeb in Sareis.

For me, the best part of Liechtenstein was its hilly countryside. I drove to the villages of Malbun and Triesenberg. Once there I took a chair lift to Sareis and walked with a local guide. There are many hiking, biking, and mountain climbing trails (download the trails app) where you can see interesting rock formations, wildflowers, and cows with bells walking around pastures. Take a break at one of the dairy farms to taste fresh yogurt, cheese, and ice creams.

You can also hike with a Golden Eagle and his guide. Watch the majestic’s bird’s flying and hunting skills as Norman, the falconer (one of the only ones in the country) talking passionately about his relationship with his bird.

Norman and his Golden Eagle.
Norman and his Golden Eagle.

All the locals I met in Liechtenstein were very friendly and truly loved living there. The 30,000 citizens (citizenship is very difficult to get) feel happy and well taken care of by the government. When I asked them what they loved most about their country, they said many things. Being able to wake up to this beautiful scenery, breathe the clean mountain air, be outdoors and not have to face any traffic!

How To Celebrate Christmas in Innsbruck

When you think of Christmas, you probably picture brilliantly white snow falling on fir trees; people wearing woolen mittens holding steaming cups of hot chocolate, and little kids screaming with excitement as they watch Santa bring a bag full of surprises. You can see their little faces light up as they open up their presents and discover something awesome. They might be getting a new toy for Christmas like a fluffy teddy, or for the more older child, they might be getting a cooler gadget type toy. If you are stuck on what to get your son, then take a look at this page here for more inspiration (you can check this out here). Hopefully, your kid will be able to tell you what they want, although it probably doesn’t matter, as they’ll just be happy to see Santa! This is the very Christmasy feeling you get when you travel to Innsbruck, Austria – the capital of the Alps.

The small city located near the border of Germany and Italy transforms into a winter wonderland through the month of December. There are lots of events taking place so make sure to check the calendar and plan your trip accordingly. Starting mid November, there are advent and Christmas concerts, a Christmas flea market, brass music on the tower. The best part is, most of these are free and open to public.

Here are some ways you can get into the Christmas spirit in Innsbruck…

Shop at The Christmas Markets

This was my first time at a Christmas market in Europe and I was overwhelmed by the sheer number of families (mostly Italians) in town enjoying simple pleasures. While we in US focus mostly on shopping for presents at big name brands during the holiday season, the people at the Christmas market at Marktplatz were strolling through the decorated squares, sipping on gluhwein (mulled wine), eating cheesy raclette toast, roasted chestnuts and kiachl (fried donuts).

The market in Maria-Theresien-Strasse sold unique Christmas ornaments, little village scenes, handmade woolens, candles, statues, woodwork, candy, cards and so much more. I felt a gift bought here would be a lot more meaningful than from the mall!

Watch The Krampus Parade

Prior to visiting Innsbruck, I did not know much about the tradition of krampus – which apparently has been around for a couple of hundred years in western Europe. In olden times, the Catholic church used the mythological figure (half goat, half demon) to scare kids so they behave well. Men would dress up as krampus and beat up the naughty kids while Santa would bring gifts to the nice ones (naughty or nice, get it?).

Little did I know that I had been a bad girl this year because I was beaten up by many devils in the town of Igls this year! I arrived at the annual krampus parade as an innocent spectator taking videos of the masked devils riding their chariots lit with fire. But then some of these devils pulled adults and kids from the crowd and whipped them with their brooms and sticks. Yes it hurt, and by the time the fourth guy headed my way, I ran for the bus back to my hotel.

Though scary, it was an experience hanging out with locals who brought their little kids to watch the parade. Even the young ones went along with the whippings as it is just a part of tradition.

Stroll Through Swarovski Crystal Worlds

Located just outside the city is a magical Christmas themed garden with lighted figures. Also, the new poetic garden features a unique Crystal Cloud made from 800,000 hand-mounted and enchanted floating crystals – pictures don’t do justice to the glistening reflections!

Being a Swarovski fan, I also enjoyed visiting the museum that tells the story of the family (who was from Bohemia which is now in Czech Republic), and displays some of the most famous gowns and jewels that bestowed celebrities on red carpets. Also, there is the largest Swarovski store I have ever seen selling crystals ranging from $50-50,000. There’s no way you can walk out empty handed from here.

Brunch with a View

If you are dreaming of a white Christmas, you will definitely get it in Innsbruck. Just take the Nordketten cable car to Seegrube, where you will find some of the best ski slopes in the Alps. I couldn’t stop taking pictures of the majestic Stubai glacier as I enjoyed my first snowfall of the season. Many locals hike up the mountain, grab a delicious lunch at Seegrube Restaurant, and then take the cable car back down.

Another popular option for Sunday brunch is Restaurant Bergisel SKY (make reservations in advance) overlooking the famous Olympic Bergisel Ski Jump. Perched above the city, the glass enclosed restaurant has some of the best views of Innsbruck and the surrounding mountains.

In the mood for Christmas already? Then head to Innsbruck, Austria and enjoy the special season! I would recommend staying at least two days to enjoy the festivities, and longer if you like winter sports like skiing, snowboarding, tobogganing, or winter hiking.

Five Tips for Traveling to Moldova

I have a few friends from Moldova here in Atlanta. But many others have never even heard about this tiny country in Eastern Europe. So the biggest question I get is: “Why would you want to go there?” My response – why not!

Moldova got a bad rep after Dutch sociologist Ruut Veenhoven named it “the least happy nation on the planet” and travel writer Eric Weiner recounted his miserable account to Moldova in his 2009 book – The Geography of Bliss. He said the post Soviet country was full of poor, sad people that never smiled. Yes, Moldova suffered during communism, still has a very low GDP and is the least visited country in Europe, but that doesn’t mean you shouldn’t go visit.

Besides, I found the people in Moldova to be quite friendly and happy (not LOL or gregarious). They joked, laughed and enjoyed time with family and friends as people do in any part of the world. They also complained about the cold weather, job shortages, and political distrust as we do out here. I dined with several locals, went sightseeing with them, as well as stayed with a Moldovan host at his cozy apartment. Everyone was welcoming and eager to show me around their country.

However, being an informed traveler will make your experience richer and more enjoyable. Here are some things to know before you plan a trip to Moldova.

Don’t Touch and Go

Most people stay in the capital of Chișinău,and get disappointed because it’s not the most beautiful European city. There are a few museums, lakes and parks, but 1 day is enough to cover them. Moldova is a small country but many of the attractions are far from the capital and require all-day trips. Plan for at least 4-5 days in the country if you want to see it well. Some of the places to add to your list are Milestii Mici (largest underground winery in the world), Tipova monastary (oldest), Saharna (pilgrimage site), Orheiul Vechi (cave monastery), Monastirea Curchi (largest monastic complex), Codru Natural Reservation (forest with wildlife), and Transnistria (a breakaway unrecognized country).

The Food is Really Good

Moldovan cuisine has not surfaced on the global scale but you will definitely not be disappointed with the food, which has influences of Turkey, Georgia, Ukraine, Poland and Russia. Think grilled meats, rolled dolmas, roasted vegetables, creamy polenta, steamed dumplings, fresh salads. If you like pork, cheese and bread, you will be in heaven. The soil in Moldova is very fertile so produce is fresh and plentiful. I had the sweetest apples ever!

The national dish is Plăcintă, fried pastry stuffed with cheese, mushrooms, eggs or mashed pumpkins, eaten as appetizer, snack or side.

Locals typically eat a big lunch and small dinner of cold cuts, salad and bread. Sample to seasonal fruit compotes (homemade juices), divin (Moldovan brandy) and wine.

Search for Good Wine

The country is full of wineries and you may want to do a few wine tastings/ winery tours while you are there. In fact, Moldova is one of the largest wine producers in the world (ranked in top 20). But most of the wine they produced was for a discerning Russian market and was not the best quality. Things are improving now as Russia banned Moldovan wines (political play) and Moldovan wine makers upped their game to appeal internationally.

One of my favorites was Mimi Castle, a relatively high end producer of dry red, sparkling and sweet whites. Definitely have a wine paired dinner at their beautiful restaurant set inside a historic castle. Chateau Vartely also makes some nice ice wines.

Save Some Money

Compared to other cities in Europe, you will feel rich in Moldova. A nice dinner with wine will set you back $20-30 for 2 people. Wine bottles cost $2-3, and young wines even less than that. A wine tour runs about $8 and a top of the line exclusive tasting of 10 wines less than $60. Many of the wineries have hotels attached to them so look for a wine/ stay/ meal package.

Fall is Ideal for Festivals

My friends in Moldova told me summer is the most boring time of the year as nothing much is going on. Fall is the best season to visit Moldova because of the leaves changing colors and lots of events going on. The Moldova wine festival, officially named “National Wine Day“, takes place in Chisinau during the first weekend in October at the end of the grape harvest.

I attended Tulburel Young Wine Festival at Mold Expo where families gathered on a Sunday to eat, drink and dance. Exhibitors from all over Moldova and surrounding countries brought their unlabeled young wines for tasting (some of which were decent). There was also food, honey, candy and crafts.

Moldova is pretty easy for tourists to navigate. There is no visa required to enter Moldova (even though its not part of EU), rental cars are available at the small airport in the capital and roads are easy to drive on except for a few bumps and a short rush hour traffic. Most people speak English and are polite. They respect each other and expect you to show up at the appointed time (even at restaurants and wineries). It is also extremely safe and affordable.

Why Go on a Free Walking Tour in Bucharest

People often ask – Isn’t traveling abroad expensive? Seasoned travelers will tell you that traveling abroad can sometimes be cheaper than living in the US! With so many platforms such as discounted airlines, HomeExchange, AirBnB, work exchanges, etc. it is cheaper to travel now than it has ever been before.

One of the best ways to save money while traveling is my taking Free Walking Tours. These are great ways to explore the city on foot, with a local guide, while getting some exercise. And the best part is they are free, though I do advise you to tip your guide generously 🙂

During my recent visit to Bucharest, I took a walking tour of Old Town Bucharest with Unbelievable Bucharest Tours.

Enjoy free concerts at the open air atrium near University Square.

I met my guide, Catalana at the guitar statue near University Square. I was the only one on the tour that morning, so I had the guide all to myself.

We made our way through the main streets, crossing church into Old Town, while Catalana explained to me some of the history of the city as well as the Parisian style buildings we were looking at.

I find it fascinating when people tell me the “behind the scenes” story of unassuming buildings we would pass by, not realizing what they are truly used for.

This palatial looking building is used as a hospital!

Statue at the entrance of Old Town that represents the birth of Rome.

Biserica Sfantul Anton church used for coronations

Stavropoleos Monastery has beautiful Turkish architecture and a courtyard to take a break

You can easily get lost in historic Old Town Bucharest. With hundreds of bars, restaurants and souvenier shops, it may look very touristy but the locals also hang out here (you just need to know the right spots). Plus, there are interesting places to see that you will miss if you didn’t know where to look, such as the remains of an underground carvan sarai attached to a church or a Soviet era apartment building.

This building was the original stock market

When most people think of Romania, the first thing that comes to mind is Dracula. Catalana explained to me that the fiction novel Dracula is based on the emperor Vlad. He never drank blood, rather impaled his prisoners in public as was the tradition during Medieval times. Growing up, Catalana was told heroic tales of Vlad as he defeated the Romans against the Ottoman empire.

She also pointed out some good places to eat, which I returned to during the rest of my stay. Finding out where the locals go eat is another great tip to gather on the free walking tours.

Hanu Lui Manuc is one of the oldest restaurants serving traditional food in a beautiful courtyard and live folk dance performances.

Caruicubere is a Romanian brewery and restaurant designed to look like a palace.

Pasajul Mazza-Villacrosse is a Parisian style covered alley with the best hookah bars.

I had a great Lebanese lunch at Finikia in Old Town.

Catalana also pointed out that I could see bullet holes in the building across from my hotel from the Romanian revolution.

Sample free fruits, cheese, ham and honey at Piata Obor market.

Further, she gave me tips to where to spend the rest of my stay in Bucharest. Since I am most interested in food, I went to see the Piata Obor market where locals come to buy fresh vegetables, flowers, cheese and spices. Another money saving tip – you can always find cheap street food and free tastings at the fresh food markets. Just ask for a sample!

To learn more about Unbelievable Bucharest private and free tours click here.

Have you had a great Free Walking Tour experience? Do share in the comments section below…

You Have to Eat and Drink This in Croatia

During the 10 days I spent in Croatia, I ate about 10,000 calories worth of wine, pastries, pasta and seafood per day! I know you are thinking, Where does the food go? I actually walked about 10 miles a day through historic squares, cobblestone streets and parks filled with spring flowers, so everything evened out!

While its hard to include all the delicious things you can find to eat and drink in Croatia, here are my favorites. Trust me, you will not be doing justice to yourself if you leave the country without tasting all of them!

Baby asparagus salad with boiled eggs at O’Zalata Restaurant (now closed) was located inside the walled city in Split. During spring, wild asparagus are found along hillsides and people pick them up while hiking. These are much thinner than what you find in the American supermarkets and have a lovely crunchy texture.

Mushroom soup made with 20 different kinds of mushrooms at Gabreku 1929 Restaurant in Samobor. Named best restaurant in this part of Croatia, the chefs collect mushrooms from all seasons, preserves them, and use them in this amazing soup that is famous in northern Croatia. It is serve with mushroom trumpet powder and pumpkin powder. Even the bread is made fresh daily using local grains and corn.

When I saw people lining up to get a piece of this pie at The Riva (Split waterfront), I had to taste it. Soparnik is a Swiss chard stuffed savory pie and is the most famous speciality of the Dalmatian region. It originated from pizza as a poor man’s food. You can find many street vendors selling their own recipe of soparnik.

The island of Hvar is famous for Peka, which is usually made with veal or lamb and potatoes, cooked under an iron bell filled with charcoal. My hosts, Borivoj and Zeljka Bojanic, who run Konoba Maslina Restaurant in the village of Vrisnik, cooked me a tender grilled octopus peka. It was tender, juicy and so flavorful. I’m sure they got the fresh catch earlier that morning. Even if you are not an octopus fan, this would make you one!

Most tourists stay inside the walled city of Dubrovnik, which can get very crowded specially when cruise ships dock. My guide, Tomi from Viator Travel, drove me to Pelješac peninsula near Dubrovnik, where we took a small boat into the sea accompanied by an oyster and mussel farmer. He picked up oysters straight out of the water, shanked them open, drizzled lemon juice, and handed them over to us. A bit raw and live for my taste, but could it get any fresher than this?

Zagreb has a lot of good restaurants serving Italian, Croatian, Middle Easter, Mediterranean and European cuisines. Though I had many delicious meals in the capital, the best place I ate was Vinodol Restaurant in the heart of downtown Zagreb. The ambiance was beautiful, but the Fuji pasta with fresh black Istrian truffles, and a glass of Istrian wine – were to die for!

Why would you travel to a place to eat fruit? Because it the sweetest organic farm fresh strawberries you can find for really cheap! At Dolac Farmers Market in Zagreb, I bought a pint of giant organic sweet and juicy strawberries for $1.50, and devoured them sitting in the park surrounded by tulips. Heaven!

Croatians make all kinds of homemade brandies (called rakia or raki) using fruits, nuts and honey, often using what’s growing in their own backyards or gardens. These home brews are had at home (before and after dinner) or sold at local farmer’s markets. One of the best raki’s I tasted was at a simple kiosk located in the Craft Square in Varaždin. The lady who produced the honey brandy even raised her own bees for the honey that she used in the brandy. Talk about knowing the source of your food!

Another amazing dinner I had was at the family-owned upmarket Restoran Palatin in Varaždin. The meal was scrumptious, but the icing on the cake (literally speaking) was the Palatin Cake for dessert. The owner told me that  this 6 layers of rich chocolate and chestnuts pastry was a 100-year old family recipe.

No visit to Samobor is complete without Kremšnite or Kremšnita, a local pastry made with cream custard. It is served warm in the northern part of Croatia, and eaten for breakfast and dessert. Sign me up! In fact, many people come to Samobor on the weekends, only to grab a slice of this comfort food.

I also visited many wineries in Hvar and Dubrovnik that are worth visiting. Croatia produces excellent quality red and white wines, my favorite being malvazija (malvasia) from Istria, plavac mali from Dalmatia, and Dingač from Pelješac peninsula.

If you need something to bring back home and remember the flavors of Croatia, food markets and souvenir shops across southern Croatia sell packets of candied dry fruits. Arancini are traditional homemade sweets made with candied figs, orange or almonds, that are crunchy, long lasting and taste amazing with a shot of rakia.

The Museum of Broken Relationships: Must See in Croatia

The Museum of Broken Relationships in Zagreb, Croatia, is by far the most unique museum I have ever been to. Unlike other museums, it doesn’t carry any antiques, jewels or historic remanences. Instead, it displays items donated by patrons from all over the world that hold symbolic value to them personally.

Museum of Broken Relationships
Take your time reading through the various exhibits

A Personal Connection

After realizing heartbreak, Olinka Vištica, a film producer, and Dražen Grubišić, a sculptor, coined the idea of this museum. Starting as a personal collection of previous relationships, it quickly transformed into a 1000-item traveling museum. As a result, the two Zagreb-based artists have received audiences across 13 countries. In addition, the museum won the EMYA Kenneth Hudson Award in 2010 for the most innovative and daring museum projects in Europe.

Items on display include everyday quirky items such as a stiletto shoe, CD’s, laundry basket, toy cars, letter, etc. Each of the items is accompanied by country of origin, a memoir of the relationship and relationship period. I found some notes particularly interesting and others rather funny.

The collections were diverse as people recounted short stories of randomly falling in love and of inevitable heartbreaks.

Museum of Broken Relationships
A crate acting as recollection of a past relationship

A One Of A Kind Experience

One can spend an hour or two seeing the small museum, though the museum also sells books with pictures and stories of some of the items on display. You can also find break ups on the interactive world map and read stories on the blog.

Reading stories of broken relationships is perhaps the opposite of reading romantic novels, but surprisingly they don’t get you down or depressed. I feel that reading about real-life relationships that didn’t always end well makes us realize that we live in a realistic world where everything is not always perfect. It makes you feel that you are not the only one who has suffered through a heartbreak. And it makes you smile to read about how people fall in love and cherish the smallest of gifts for years to come.

Museum of Broken Relationships
Find yourself connecting with the items on display

While the museum is very popular among visitors, it nearly doubles its attendance around the Valentine’s holiday. If you would like to unburden your relationship, send in your item to the Museum of Broken Relationships.

The Museum of Broken Relationships has permanent exhibits in Zagreb, Croatia and Los Angeles, California.

Santa, Sleighs and Igloos in Finland

Do you believe in Santa Claus? What if I told you that the letters you address to “The North Pole” actually make it to a small town in Finland, where Santa and his helpers sit at their desks and read each and every letter? You probably won’t believe me, thinking it was a made up kids story. But really, it is actually true and I have seen it with my very own eyes!

I flew to a city called Ivalo, in northern Finland, located inside the Arctic Circle. Even in April, there was snow as far as my eyes could see. Reindeers appeared wandering around the alpine forests, as I took a 30-minute shuttle ride to Kakslauttanen Arctic Resort in Lapland.

Most people say they have never heard of Lapland, until I mention the “igloo hotel.” The iconic photo of a village dotted with glass igloos glowing against the twilight sky in wintery wonderland, has appeared across many social media posts. I had only dreamt of going there myself someday, and here I was.

igloo resort finlandThe shuttle dropped off the passengers at a log cabin used as the reception area. We fetched our keys and were told to use the sleighs kept outside to carry our luggage to our respective cabin rooms or igloos.

While it was snowing heavily outside and temperatures dipped under 30F (“unusually warm for this time of the year” they informed me), I dragged my wooden sleigh to my cabin.

laplandThere are three kinds of rooms at the resort. The first and most popular are the glass igloos, available in two sizes – sleeps 2 (with toilet, no shower) or 4 people (with shower and toilet). The igloos have limited space to store luggage and almost no privacy, since they are made entirely of glass. Though you have to walk through the snowy cold weather to get to the igloo, once inside, it is nice and toasty.

The second option is to get a log cabin. Here, you can get a very comfortable king size bed, kitchenette, breakfast area, as well as a personal sauna. Now, that’s luxury! For those who cannot decide between the igloo or the cabin, there is the Kelo Glass Igloo, which combines a cabin with an igloo, so you get the best of both worlds. Store your luggage in the cabin, enjoy a nice hot sauna, and sleep in the igloo at night.

kakslauttanen_kelo-glass_igloo_rgbPicture yourself lying in bed, looking at the sky, while the Aurora Lights dance around in their green, orange and red hues. That is the main reason to come here. In Lapland, you can see northern lights almost every night from August-April, in their full splendor. The resort also offers activities “Aurora Hunting” on snow mobiles or reindeer sleighs.

During the day, guests can enjoy winter sports such as cross country skiing, dog sledding, hiking, riding snow mobiles, and more.

dsc06915For lunch, there is always all-you-can-eat soup (two choices) and homemade breads. Dinner at the restaurant is also quite good. The menu features local ingredients and Lappish dishes, such as reindeer stew, Alaskan crab, grilled salmon, and stewed cloudberries.

reindeer & salmon

The resort is actually quite large and worth exploring for a few hours. First, you want to visit Santa’s house. Here, resident Mr and Mrs Claus live, meet guests and participate in activities through the season. The Celebration House is where Santa throws elaborate parties. It is also used for weddings and events. There are other small workshops, an ice chapel, and of course, the local wildlife. Couple of dozen reindeers live on the property.

Kakslauttanen Arctic Resort is one of it’s kind. It was started by a visionary, Jussi Eiramo. While on vacation, he discovered this patch of beautiful area where he could camp and see the Northern Lights almost every night of the year. So, he opened a souvenir shop about 40 years ago, then made ice igloos for people to stay at, and later designed the first glass igloos using unique Finnish technology.

Today, Kakslauttanen Arctic Resort is a bucket list destination for those who seek adventure, romance and off the beaten path travel. It is a place where families flock to in the winter to celebrate the holiday season, party with Santa, and enjoy the essence of the North Pole.

10 Facts You Might Not Know About Turin

What do you know about Turin, a charming city in northern Italy? I have traveled to Italy several times, but sadly never made it to Turin or Torino until now. Prior to my visit, I didn’t know much about it, except that the 2006 winter Olympics were held here. Here are some facts about Turin that I feel you should know too!

  1. Though most people are familiar with Rome, Turin was Italy’s first capital city in 1861.
  2. Turin was home to the House of Savoy, Italy’s royal family. There are many palaces, residences and castles in the city and in surrounding towns.
  3. French influences can be seen in the city’s architecture and culture. Up until the unification of the Italian kingdom in 1861, Piedmont included areas that are currently in France which explains this. The atmosphere, culture and even the local dialect is very similar to French.turin3
  4. Turin is sometimes called the cradle of Italian liberty, for having been the birthplace and home of notable politicians and people who contributed to the Risorgimento, such as Cavour.
  5. Some of Italy’s best universities and colleges are in Turin, such as the six-century-old University of Turin and the Turin Polytechnic.
  6. Turin’s several monuments and sights make it one of the world’s top 250 tourist destinations, and the tenth most visited city in Italy. Even then, it doesn’t feel touristy at all here.rive Po turin
  7. Turin is ranked third in Italy, after Milan and Rome, for economic strength. With a GDP of $58 billion, Turin is the world’s 78th richest city in terms of purchasing power. Food is actually quite cheap.square in turin
  8. Turin is also home to the Italian automotive industry, having headquarters of FIAT, Lancia and Alfa Romeo.
  9. The shroud of Jesus of Nazareth is kept in the royal chapel of the Cathedral of Saint John the Baptist in Turin, northern Italy. The Pope decided when it is allowed to be displayed to the public.
  10. Turin is home of 2006 winter Olympic games. Events that made their Olympic debut in Turin included mass start biathlon, team sprint cross country skiing, snowboard cross and team pursuit speed skating.

To learn more about Turin, visit my friends at Turin Epicurean Capital.

Read This Before You Rent a Car in Europe

Securing a vehicle for ground transportation at my destination is something I have done numerous times. I research the rental companies as well as third party offers through Priceline, Expedia, Orbitz, and other online agencies. Careful consideration is given to selecting the appropriate pick-up location, the dates the car is needed, best amenities, and best price; and then, finally, I book a car. Very soon the confirmation is delivered to my inbox.

Now, most people would put a check mark by “rental car” on their to-do-list. I put a check with another date, because a few days before the trip, I will call the rental agency to make sure everything is in order. Oh, I do not expect any problems, but I just like to make sure. With that said, I had obviously never tried to rent a car internationally, until preparing for my recent trip to Europe. Renting a car for my stay in Italy proved to be time consuming, nerve wracking, and an oddly rewarding learning experience. Here are 6 important things I learned.

Italian Car Rental

1. Choose stick or automatic: The first and most formidable obstacle was the scarcity of rentals with automatic transmissions. Availability and the best prices await travelers who can drive a stick. Manual transmission vehicles rent at a significantly lower rate than their automatic counterparts.

2. Begin your search early: If you are like me and a stick is out of the question, I would strongly encourage you to begin looking for a rental car at least two months in advance. What I have learned is that only in the United States, Canada, and Australia do automatic transmissions reign supreme. Not to worry though, a limited number of rentals with automatic transmissions are in stock for us Americans, but when they’re gone, they are gone. The ambience of casually touring the Italian Riviera will not be the same from the backseat of a taxi or from a tour bus.

3. Understand insurance coverage and options: The next lesson I would learn was the difference in the rental insurance requirements and mandates. In Italy, Collision Damage Waiver Insurance is mandatory. It is almost always included in the rental price quote. If this insurance is not a part of the car insurance quote, it will be added before payment is made. It cannot be declined.

Excess Insurance is an optional insurance to cover payment of “excess damage assessments” should dings, dents, scratches, or any other type of damage be found outside of what is included in the Collision Damage Waiver Insurance. This is the insurance we never really think we will need, but we are afraid not to get. For this trip the optional insurance was purchased, but not through the car rental company. It’s worth looking at what different insurance companies have to offer, for example Costco car insurance quotes at Truly Insurance may differ in cover and price compared to another insurance company.

4. Shop around for optional coverage: Many car rental companies will try and convince buyers that they will not accept third party excess damage insurance. Do not fall prey to this tactic. Third party companies such as iCarhireinsurance.com sell this optional insurance at a much cheaper rate. Frequent road warriors may purchase it annually and their coverage is available globally.

After much back and forth deliberation, I booked an automatic transmission vehicle, which was covered by the mandatory CDW and the optional Excess Insurance through the third party company, rentalcars.com. Finally, I breathe a sigh of relief, feeling empowered with the accomplishment of navigating an international car rental. I could just picture us cruising along the Italian Riviera.

5. Check for holidays that may affect your visit: A few days before leaving the United States, I contacted rentalcars.com to verify the booking. Everything was confirmed, the reservation had been booked with Thrifty and I was told there was no cause for worry. Despite this assurance, I felt very uneasy, I tried but I could not shake the feeling that something might go wrong. Not having a car in the US is one thing, but to be without a car, or without one with an automatic transmission on a foreign continent would be a disaster. Perhaps my tension was further fueled by something I have not mentioned. The day we were to pick-up the car was a national holiday and most major rental outlets and other businesses across the entire country would be closed.

6. Confirm your reservation with the pick-up location: I needed relief from the awful feeling within me, so I called Thrifty and to my dismay the representative informed me that there was nothing in their system for me. After countless hours on hold, more than four representatives, and several transfers, not one representative could find my booking. Panic set in, but I quickly called rentalcars.com and explained the situation. To my relief, a very knowledgeable agent told me exactly why there was no need for all my anxieties.

To get the best prices, rentalcars.com collaborates directly with the car pick-up location. Therefore the confirmation number was specific only to the Thrifty location in Florence, Italy, where I would receive the vehicle. In my final attempt to be assured that we would not be on foot during this vacation, I loaded $10 onto my Skype account and called the Thrifty pick-up site in Florence, Italy. When I asked about a reservation for Kaylah Burks, I heard the sweet sound of, “Si, Signora Burks, we have your car rental reservation in our system.”

Those looking to travel to Crete should consider hiring their rental car through Mietwagen Kreta. They offer a wide range of vehicles and you can even decide where to pick up the car; it can be handed over at the airport or delivered to your hotel!

For more information on international car rentals, check back for my next article featuring great tips on must have gps options, the pick-up process and pumping gas.

~ By Kaylah Burks, an athlete, who enjoys traveling the world while staying health conscious. Follow her on Instagram @jadenlie