Yucatan Archives

Five Reasons to Visit Merida

If you have visited the eastern part of Mexico, you may be familiar with the beach towns of Cancun, Playa del Carmen and Cozumel. Inland the state of Yucatan, is a magical city called, Mérida. With a population of 828,000 (2010 census), Merida is the capital of Yucatán, and a cosmopolitan hub of the region. It is relatively easy to get to (only 2 hours from southeast US) and offers a very different vibe than the rest of Mexico.

Here are 5 reasons to go to Merida, right now…

1. Merida is the safest place in Mexico. The country has developed a negative reputation for safety, but just like any other place in the world, there are good and bad areas. The state of Yucatan is open to educated, wealthy, and open minded people. Merida has a very strong culture that has historically been cut off and well preserved. Therefore, the people have maintained integrity when it comes to neighborly friendliness.

2. It’s like Europe, only cheaper. The cobblestone streets of the old town are surrounded by Spanish architecture. Street artists, ongoing exhibitions, families walking in the park square, lovers dining al fresco listening to live music – all gives the feeling that you are in a romantic city in Europe. But you are just south of US, where the Mexican Peso goes a lot further than the Euro.

3. There’s lots of culture. The famous avenue, Paseo de Montejo, is dotted with sculptures that are commission to artists around the world. Walking down the street you will also pass by museums, restaurants, boutiques, theaters and lovely mansions. Jarana orchestras and vaquero dances can be enjoyed at some restaurants. Listen to Yucatan Symphony Orchestra, watch a live performance at Teatro José Peón Contreras, or spend an afternoon at Gran Museo del Mundo Maya. It is noted that there is at least one free cultural event happening every day in Merida and weekends are dedicated entirely to the enjoyment of arts.

Click here to see list of cultural events happening in Merida.

4. This isn’t the Mexican food you know of. Yucatecan food is its own genre of cuisine and very different from what most people consider “Mexican” food. It includes influences from the local Mayan culture, as well as Caribbean, Mexican, European and Middle Eastern cultures. Try local dishes such as Sopa de Lima, Queso Relleno, Poc-Chuc, Papadzules and Panuchos. In Merida, you can find traditional restaurant, hole in the wall taco joint, as well as international bars and restaurants.

Sopa de Lima at Restaurante La Tradicion

Click here to read more about the food from Yucatan.

5. It is is saturated with Mayan history. Mérida has the highest percentage of indigenous persons of any large city in Mexico with approximately 60% of all inhabitants being of the Maya ethnicity. The ancient Mayas left behind many cities with buildings, pyramids, and temples, and new discoveries are being made all the time. Located nearby is Chichen Itzá, Mayan pyramid known as one of the New Seven Wonders of the World.

10 Essential Dishes of Yucatecan Cuisine

It is located in Southeastern Mexico, on the north part of the Yucatán Peninsula. Yucatecan food is its own unique style and is very different from what most people would consider Mexican food. It includes influences from the local Mayan culture, as well as Caribbean, European (Spanish), (North) African, and Middle Eastern cultures, as well as from the cuisine of other parts of Mexico. Key ingredients in this area are farm raised turkey and pork, spices such as oregano, habanero and xcatik, corn tortillas. Here are the top 10 must try dishes when you visit Yucatan…

1. Sopa de Lima – Whole turkeys are simmered for hours to make a delicious broth. It is then seasoned with with garlic, onion, tomatoes and dried oregano and lots of lime juice. The result is a sour yet refreshing lime soup. It tastes especially good when topped with fried tortilla strips.

2. Panuchos – An appetizer of handmade corn tortillas topped with refried black beans and shredded chicken or turkey. The chicken is marinated in annatto past (peppery achiote seeds) dissolved in juice of sour orange. It looks colorful when garnished with pickled red onions, avocados and chopped lettuce.

3. Salbutes – Looks very similar to paunches, but in salbutes the tortillas are made of corn and flour combined, and are fried till crispy. They are topped with shredded chicken (like above), onions, tomatoes and avocados, and served as appetizers.

yucatan food salutes — Salbutes at Hotel Mayaland

4. Longaniza Asada – Spicy, long, skinny sausage is similar to the Spanish chorizo. In the Yucatan it has a darker color because of achiote and venison (deer meat) instead of pork. It is smoked on charcoal grill and served with beans, tortillas, white cheese and sour orange.

yucatan food longaniza — Longaniza at Restaurante La Tradicion

5. Cochinita Pibil – Shredded BBQ pork is one of the delicacies of the region and can be found at practically every restaurant. The pork loin is traditionally marinated in annatto paste and sour orange juice overnight, then wrapped in banana leaves and gently cooked over charcoal for hours. It is always served with refried black beans and pickled red onion relish. Alternatively, you can get it with chicken instead of pork.

6. Queso Relleno – Probably the most globally influenced dish in the Yucatan. A round block of Dutch Edam cheese is hollowed out and stuffed with ground pork cooked with onions, bell peppers, olives, raisins, capers, and almonds. Hardboiled eggs are added to the meat mixture before it makes its way into the cheese dome. The entire thing is wrapped with banana leaves, baked for 30 minutes, and served with tomato salsa and a cheese sauce. Despite the calories, it is to die for!

yucatan food queso rellenos — Queso Rellenos at Restaurante La Tradicion

7. Poc Chuc – Sounds like pork chop, and it basically is grilled fillet of pork loin. The meat is beaten till thin (Milanese style) and marinated in sour orange, salt and pepper, then grilled over charcoal.

yucatan food pork chuc — Pork Chuc at Hacienda Sotuta de Peón

8. Dulce de Papaya Con Queso – An interesting dessert recipe that can take 3 days to prepare. A whole green papaya is candied by leaving outside (only at night), soaked in lime water, then caramelized with sugar for few hours. The result is a sweet and gummy piece of fruit which is served with shredded Edam cheese.

9. Flan – A common dish found across Central and South America, and at practically every meal in the Yucatan. Flan is made with condensed and evaporated milk, sugar, eggs and vanilla. The carmel custard is delicious when light and creamy.

10. Xnipec – Roasted habaenro peppers are used to make all kinds of sauces that can taste anywhere from mild to burn your tongue hot! Xnipec is a fiery hot chunky salsa made with habanero chiles and Seville orange juice, eaten in small quantities.

Living With Art in the Yucatan

During my recent visit to the colonial city of Velladolid in the state of Yucatan, Mexico, I had the privilege of visiting John Venator at his home. Venator is a retired American executive who fell in love with Mexico few years ago. He visited the Yucatan area with his wife on vacation, and eventually made it home. In Velladolid, John and his wife, Dorianne purchased a home that was in ruins and renovated it for 10 years. They designed every feature of the house very carefully and then converted it into one of the largest private Mexican art collections in the world.

Casa de los Venados translating to House of the Deer, is an 18,000 square foot private home/ folk art museum located near the main square of Velladolid. An unassuming sign outside the main door doesn’t give away much to whats inside – over 3000 pieces of museum quality Mexican folk and contemporary art.

John shows me around the hallway, patio, bedrooms, kitchen, backyard and dining room, pointing out to several of his favorite pieces. Everywhere I look, there is a sculpture, painting, pottery or furniture that was either commissioned by the Venators or acquired from art shows, flea markets and competitions. There are no names or descriptions, but John himself remembers each artists, and goes on to tell several stories of how he brought them to his collection. The pieces are from all over Mexico and represent traditional Mexican elements such as wild animals, everyday people, skulls, devils, etc. There is even an entire guest suite dedicated to the famous legend, Frida Kahlo.

Below are some photos from Casa de los Venados… but truly, they don’t do justice to actually seeing the place in person.

While the Venators continue to live in this house museum, they offer daily tours at 10am in English and Spanish for a $5 suggested donation, through which they support local charities. A visit to Casa de los Venados is not to be missed! Watch video of the home or visit their website for more information.